Jump to content
APC Forum

Aerial Shells


Chris

Recommended Posts

As Mumbles said, you want a hole all the way through the tube so that there are vents on both sides of the tube. It's best to drill the hole before filling the tube and then place something inside the hole while filling, so that you can insert a piece of blackmatch through the channel and have it protrude from both sides.

 

These inserts are used almost exclusively in cylindrical shells. For an effect like the picture you first posted, the farfalle inserts are placed around the perimeter of the shell casing, a burst canulle is inserted in the center, and then the space between the inserts and the canulle is filled with stars.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 3.6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • Mumbles

    390

  • psyco_1322

    228

  • Pretty green flame

    137

  • qwezxc12

    134

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Beautiful shell. It's unfortunate that most video cameras are unable to capture the delicate color of both zinc and charcoal based stars. They really have to been seen with the human to be appreciated.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hallo boys.

Look this:

http://wiki.feuerwerk.net/index.php/Farfalle

What do you think about this?

Is it possible, that farfalle tube have a two holes?

I dont know, how can this tube rotate in the air.

What do you thing about pressing and ramming composition to the tube?

Is better dry or wet composition when I filling tubes?

Bye.

Yes Karlos, farfalle inserts have (2) holes. The orientation of the holes you see on that Wiki page is designed for the maximum amount of sparks, but you lose duration. If you put the holes close to one end, they will burn longer.

 

If using iron fillings, it is ok to ram, but if you're using titanium you must press them. Wet the composition and granulate through a screen, letting it dry before you fill the tubes.

 

Mardec: These shells don't *only* use the inserts, there are stars in the center of the shell that make the flower. The inserts are there to provide the projecting trails of sparks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a few dozen farfalle tubes rammed. I got inspired a few nights ago. When I was calculating, I wasn't thinking. I was calculating insert count by ID, not OD, so I will have some extras. I probably wont get a chance to fire it until may though. I tossed a few in a mine and looked amazing. They're 1/2" ID by 2.5" long. I sould be able to get about 7 in a 3" shell instead of the 12 I had originally counted on. Perhaps I'll move up to a 4".

 

Stiffup, a few things. First, go 90/10 BP/iron. Secondly, look up what a tourbillion actually is, and then how to make one. What you built is DEFINATLY not a tourbillion.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hallo.

I must ask again.

 

What do you thing about this effect:

 

http://www.hanabi.co.jp/vtr/cata/ginhati.mpg

 

This is not farfalle but another effect, I belive in youre knowledge.

On hanabi site presents this effect as silver bees.

This inserts are maybe hummers, but I thing that this bees not producing sound, because not rotate guick, thougt rotate conspicously.

I´m sure that shells with this bees must be break with inferior intensity, because this inserts have a proper flying and rotating energy.

 

Sorry my guestions are maybe stupid, and english low, but I must know that.

Bye.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would say those are probably buzz bombs. Sometimes refered to as flying hummers, or Z-bombs. You can get an idea how they're produced from the following page by Alan Yates. It sounds like there are probably some whistles in there too. You can hear a screaming and whistle in addion to the humming or buzzing sound.

 

http://www.vk2zay.net/article.php/16

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Made and shot some shells yesterday. I was testing a new process of making lift grains (very happy) as well as trying a firefly comp (not impressed).

 

1/2" and 3/4" Stars drying:

http://i10.tinypic.com/2j5yikk.jpg

 

3" ball shell with 3/8" firefly stars:

http://i10.tinypic.com/2li7ayo.jpg

 

Added 2:1 BP on Rice Crispies:

http://i13.tinypic.com/48r0azd.jpg

 

Boosted with BP granules and Whistle:

http://i11.tinypic.com/47ryk9h.jpg

 

3" Canister with ten 3/4" firefly stars:

http://i16.tinypic.com/48mf9mx.jpg

 

Ready to be finished:

http://i11.tinypic.com/2v95abq.jpg

 

Final weight of the ball shells was 111g-141g. The 3" canisters were 188g & 213g. The 2" canister salutes were 78-80g. All were "spiked" with fiberglass strapping tape, "pasted" with masking tape and shot with 1/10 their weight in lift.

 

Here's one of the 3" ready to be loaded in the tube, complete with two rising comets, match, and electric igniter/leader:

http://i18.tinypic.com/43hc22w.jpg

 

Note to self...don't test shells in a blizzard!! Actually I had to, as I'm heading out of town for work for 2-3 weeks and had only Sat. night to shoot. It was snowing like hell, too:

http://i18.tinypic.com/35hegpl.jpg

 

The videos look like s**t - the camera didn't pick up any of the trailing sparks from the stars and the falling snow really obscured the colors and the bursts. Oh well...I guess I could keep on making excuses.

 

3" shell w 3/8" Ruby Red and White Primer Cores stars (same as in my 2" mines):

Shell #3

 

3" shell with 1/2" Firefly #3

The rising comets didn't take fire on the way up...you can see them ignite with the burst and take off in three directions :blink:

Shell #4

 

3" canister with 3/4" firefly #3

I was trying the break both these canisters very softly - I was trying for a brocade kind of thing. I failed... :angry: ...and they burnt WAYYY too slowly...you can hear my buddy and I laughing as they hit the snow. And yes, I spelled them "cannister"in the movies...I think my brain was still frozen.

Canister #7

Canister #8

 

2" cannister salute w/Ti

Salute

 

That was a nice way to end the shoot :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I really liked the 3/4" firefly stars. Was the 20 grams of BP on Crispies the lift on the salute?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That 2" salute was the most beautifull I have ever seen, such a nice blue flash and so even. Perfect burn time from the Ti

 

Nice fireflies too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys,

 

I really liked the 3/4" firefly stars.  Was the 20 grams of BP on Crispies the lift on the salute?

cplmac,

 

Sorry about the long title on the video - I do that to keep them straight. The 20g of BP on Crispies was used to "bulk" up the canister. The actual salute was 15g of 70:30 KClO4/Al +5g of Ti sponge mixed in with the crispies.

The shell weighed ~80g and was lifted with 7g of my -16mesh BP lift.

 

What compostition did you use for firefly?

cause your's burn much slower than mine.

 

Yankee,

 

I used this formula:

 

Firefly #3

Source: PML Digest 391. This formula is provided with the "firefly aluminum" from Skylighter.

 

Comments:

Preparation: Ball mill potassium nitrate, Air Float charcoal, sulfur and Dextrin together for 1 hour. Then add the 36 mesh Charcoal and firefly aluminum and mix with a spoon. Add water to make a dough mix and cut with a knife into 3/8" cut stars. Separate stars and dry for 3-4 days. The effect is a long tiger tail going up and firefly sparkles coming down. Larger stars take longer to dry, and a damp star produces very little firefly effect.

Potassium nitrate.................................49

Charcoal, air float...............................29

Charcoal, 36 Mesh.................................11

Sulfur............................................9

Dextrin...........................................10

Aluminum, firefly.................................5

 

I didn't have any of the "firefly" aluminum from Skylighter, nor do I know what it was, so I used 2 parts -100+300 aluminum flitters and 3 parts FireFox Sparkler aluminum chips/shards (turnings and crap that look like 6 to 20 mesh).

 

The stars were 3/4" dia x 3/4" long and pumped with maybe 8% 75/25 water/ETOH. I do not have a 3/4" star plate, so I hand pumped them with a dowel and 3/4" PVC tubing; a 1-1/4" column of damp comp was lightly rammed with a hammer to 3/4" tall and pressed out.

 

The can was burst with a 1" dia cannule of 2:1 BP on crispies with a dose of pressed fines sifted in.

 

Maybe I didn't ball mill the mix long enough or perhaps the 3/4" stars weren't completely dry. Either way, I thought 10 stars in a 3" can are too few. I still have 400 or so grams left of the dry comp; I want to try 3/4" dia x 3/8" pucks and fit 20 or so in a 3" can. That should give the burst the density I want and allow them to burn out @ 100 ft above the ground. I'm going to try to re-enforce the top and sides more than the bottom to try to get a softer downward break.

 

Any thoughts?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think that might actually give you a harder downward break. Thanks for the formula, I really liked it.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey everyone! This is my first, so HI :D Anyway, i thought i would post up my first ever successful shell, its a 1" canister shell with pulverone break.

Please tell me how it was and what could be better. thank you. enjoy :)

 

1" canister shell vid

 

1" canister shell pic

I spiced it up with oragami paper, yes i know i could have gone for somthing a little less...threataning, but what can i say.. i am a dangerous guy :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks and sounds as though the lift was weak and the shell erupted at a relatively low height. Better than my 1st shell, popped out of the PVC mortar and went 2m high before falling back to the ground. I went to look at it when I saw that the crappy twisted chinese fuse was still smouldering....I was lucky by BP was poor. :lol:
Link to comment
Share on other sites


×
×
  • Create New...